MAKE UP

Make-up is any formulated preparation used for cleansing, treating, embellishing or altering the appearance. All contain a variety of ingredients, both natural and synthetic. The selection is vast, yet within the categories, compounds are basically the same. Differences are in the finer points-texture, Colour, perfume, or in the addition of a special nutrient. Is there much difference between expensive and inexpensive brands? Performance does not vary a lot: it is usually how you use a product not what you use that determines the effect. It is true that more that research goes into the more expensive items. Also the higher the price, the more attractive the containers, the better the depth and choice of Colour, and is psychological. If you think a certain product is more effective, it invariably is. The look, the feel, the smell, the image of a cosmetic- all contribute equally.

The make-up you use depends on what suits you . Some products are in agreement with your skin, other is not. There are also several ranges of hypo-allerenic cosmetics and manufactures are increasingly concerned with purity. Cosmetics containing no chemicals whatsoever are likely to be more expensive because not only are natural ingredients often rarer, but the life of the preparation is usually limited.

SKIN PREPARATION

CLEANSERS ---these contain oil to dissolve the grease of make-up and an emulsifying agent to make removal easier.

CREAMS--- very good at removing make-up and dirt ,but apt to cling to the skin. Generally better for dry and normal skins. Remove with tissue.

COLD CREAM--- more fluffy and can be used on oily skins too. Remove with tissue.

LIQUID--- contain more water than creams and come as lotions of varying creaminess. For all types of skin. Remove with tissue.

RINSABLE CLEANERS--- light creams or liquids that can be rinsed off with water. Fine for all skins.

PAD CLEANERS---thick wads of absorbent material saturated with a liquid cleanser. Good for special areas like eyes and for touch-up cleansing.

FRESHENERS---remove last traces, refresh and refine skin texture, sometimes acting as thinners of dead cells. They come in three strengths according to alcohol content. Apply with cotton wool wads.

FRESHENERS--- the simplest, consisting of an aromatic substance dissolved in water, sometimes with a little alcohol. Smooth and cool the skin.

TONERS---slightly more bracing because of higher alcohol content. Good for dry and normal skin.

ASTRINGENTS---the strongest with highest percentage of alcohol. Tingle on skin and have a temporary pore-tightening effect. Good for oily skin.

MOISTURIZERS--- A misnomer, as these products do not give moisture themselves, but promote miniaturization by sealing in the available water. They do so by filming the skin with the thinnest invisible layer of oil or grease. The most essential of all skin preparation. They come in different formulas for different skins, so read the labels. Apply with fingertips.

CREAMS—the heaviest, also act as lubricants and protectors in extreme climates. Good for dry skin. Ageing skin and for use overnight.

LOTIONS--- lighter but still mild lubricants. Go well under make-up as they fill in surface irregularities, thus allowing foundation to adhere more smoothly and evenly.

CONDITIONERS—also called; emollients, lubricants, nourishing, treatment, enriched or night creams. Eye creams and throat creams also come into this category, as do body and hand lotions. All are heavy duty preparation aimed to help skin that needs oil or moisture or both. They do three jobs—lubricate, moisturize and protect.

CREAMS—all contain oils or greases or both; the main difference between the many types is the concentration and proportion of the two. All oils and greases, whether of animal, vegetable or mineral origin , will act in much the same way.

They are tenacious, forming a protective barrier while the skin absorbs the fatty molecules; they smooth the surface and provide and anchor for moisture. They are applied with fingertips and massaged gently into the skin. They should not disappear, but be visible on the surface. The effectiveness of these heavier creams is increased by pre-wetting the skin. Leave on for a minimum of an hour. Tissue off, then clean the face.

Many creams contain extra ingredients claiming special properties. Most are intended to encourage the skin into increased cell renewal. Skin is capable of absorbing certain outside elements, but which and to what degree is controversial. Some of the more common additions are;

HORMONES---satisfy the skins need for estrogen during and after the menopause. The hormone content of creams is too small to effect the whole system, and there is a legal limit as to how much is permitted in an ounce (30g) . They do improve skin condition to an extent as they change metabolism of cells , causing them to expand , thus plumping and smoothing the surface.

TISSUE EXTRACTS---include tissue from the embryo, placents and ovaries of young animals. Their action is to increase capillary circulation and stimulate metabolism. Their content in cream is limited, but they can help to hydrate and nourish ageing skin, also remedy excessive dryness and oily problems.

COLLAGEN—in its natural state is an important part of connective tissue and responsible for smoothness and resilience of the skin. It is used in creams to improve elasticity and help skin retain natural fluids.

EYE CREAMS---particularly concentrated conditioners with a high percentage of a finer oil. To be patted around the eye area.

THROAT CREAMS--- not very different from regular conditioners, but sometimes a little richer in oils. Apply with fingertips, massaging with upward strokes.

BODY LOTIONS---water-based emulsions that are really diluted creams, but often containing additional aromatics and sometimes a freshener to give a cool feeling. They perform the same service as any other conditioner –smooth , lubricate, moisturize and protect. Apply by hand.

HAND LOTIONS--- water-based emulsions of varying degrees of thickness. The same basic formula as a body lotion but often of a heavier consistency. Some hand creams are glycerine based, formed into a jelly substance by gum tragacanth. Protection properties are important; they also lubricate and moisturize. Apply by hand.

SUNSCREENS---these consist of a chemical screen plus a base which may be a water-alcohol mixture, a lotion, a cream, an oil or a grease. The type of base makes little difference, though the oily and greasy ones are more water resistant, and many women prefer creams because they also soften the skin. However the criterion for a sunscreen should be its efficiently at protecting the skin against sun and light. They work by selectively blocking out the ultra violet rays that are responsible for skin damage.

They fall into three groups, the names of the chemicals are impossibly difficult but to be selective you must read labels and recognize them

THE BEST---para-aminobenzoic acid, but with the disadvantage of being poorly soluble, so alcohol is needed to keep it in solution. This means that sunscreens containing it may be drying to some skins. It also tends to stain fabrics.

PRETTY GOOD--- para-aminobenzoic derivatives such as iso-amyl and glycerol, also benzophenone derivatives. These are available in all bases, but beware of a heavy application of benzophenone, as it will almost eliminate tanning completely.

FINE--- methyl anthranilate, homomenthyl salicylate, triethanolamine salicylate, cinoxate, digalloyl trioleate. Found in all base, don’t stain and approved for limited amounts of sun. Apply liberally everywhere including lips.

FAKE TANNING CREAMS----emulsions containing a chemical agent that darkens the skin. On the whole they work well, but some skins are inclined to go orangey instead of brown. Colour is temporary.