Setting lotion makes hair more manageable and easier to handle. Rollers with brushes inside are rough on hair. End papers help hold ends of hair smoothly and prevent crimping. Be sure hair is smooth and taut, but not tight on rollers; stretch it a little first by pulling in the opposite direction from which it is to be rolled. Divide the hair and work with thin sections of one-and-a-half to two inches (40-50 mm) wide, well combed out.
The bigger the roller, the looser the set; the smaller the roller, the tighter. Most hairdresser use six sizes ranging from three-quarters to two inches (20-50 mm) in diameter. The coarser or curlier the hair, the larger the roller you need.
BRUSHING OUT
Before taking hair down, allow hair to cool off at room temperature after a hot dryer. Take the bottom curlers out first. In brushing out, always brush straight back to evenly distribute the curl. Put into final shape with minimum of back combing; use hand dryer and brush, or curling iron for special curling or straightening effects.
BLOW DRYING
A precision haircut is a necessity for a good blow dry result. If straight, time can be saved by towel-drying first; if curly and you want to hair as straight as possible , you must start to blow dry while it is soaking wet. One very important point –do not pull wet hair too taut in an attempt to smooth and straighten it; this destroys hair and can cause hair fallout. Don’t have the drier near the scalp so hot that it almost scorches. Never concentrate too much heat on too small an area.
You can style with a circular brush and a hand dryer , though some dryers are equipped with built –in brushes . This is the procedure. Divide hair into four sections---crown, back and two sides; keep separated with clips. Start blow drying at the back at the nape; place brush under hair at the roots and blow over it. Dry roots first, and then middle strands, and then ends.
Dry upper back section layer by layer; move to sides and dry in the same way, beginning at neck; finally dry the crown.
For extra bounce, blow hair in opposite direction to the way you want it eventually to go, until almost dry; then switch direction for final minutes.
If hair needs to be turned under; wrap dried hair around brush, blow with hot air for a minute, continue to hold brush in place until hair has cooled. To turn hair up , wrap in opposite direction. I hair is layered , brush all hair over head while drying to give a lift, when hair is not quite dry and you have the necessary height , brush and dry in direction of style. Short curly hair should be brushed away from scalp . For fringes ---brush backward first until almost dry, then bring forward twirling around brush , dry and let air cool hair completely before removing brush . For staright fringes , brush flat on forehead.
ELECTRIC ROLLER
These are used in dry hair to restyle and shape hair between shampoos. They are fast and effective but should not be used every day as they are inclined to dry out the hair, even those with a ‘mist’ . They can be used for the whole head or certain sections to give curls, a wave or smooth according to the size of the rollers. This is how to get the best results.
The more hair you wrap around each roller, the looser the curl will be. The use of end papers ensures a smoother set. Some electric roller units recommend a special conditioner to use while setting, check instructions. Rollers remain active for about 15 minutes after you have taken them off the heating rods. When putting in rollers, start at the top of the head, working neck wards, when taking out vice versa. Allow the hair to cool in curled rolls before brushing them out.
A quick and successful way to pick up a dropping curl, shape fringes, organize ends and lift the hairline. Use with caution as they can easily scorch hair. Plastic or Teflon –coated irons minimize risk. Don’t put a metal iron on bleached hair.
Time –test a strand, building up from 2 to 20 seconds to judge how much heat it can tolerate and how quickly it curls. A good idea is to briefly dip iron into diluted setting lotion as this provides protection for the hair. Curl hair in the same direction as you would if it were going in rollers. After curling, clip strands until cool.
WIGS
A wig can either improve the way your hair looks naturally or create a totally different style. The most important thing is that it should look natural, have swing and motion.
Your first wig should be close to your own style and colour . Choose one that is relatively simple to handle .All wigs can have a professional haircut and it is not essential to invest in a human hair wig, some of the synthetic fibers are very convincing , but check colour in daylight and check its springiness. Fiber has the advantage of being more stable than real hair, does not react to the environment and is easy to care for.
Take time selecting a wig, proper fit is crucial –too tight a wig will ride upwards, too big a wig will roam around on the head. A well –fitting wig should not need to be clipped or pinned to your own hair. If you prefer haor away from the face a more natural look is achieved if an inch of hair at the hairline is combed into the wig , of course colours have to match perfectly . If the colour is different, a wig should have a fringe or be styled in such a way that hairline is invisible. Shape and untangle a wig with a wire brush , there is less fiber loss than with a comb and less static electricity than with a nylon brush . Before putting on a wig, your own hair must be securely pinned back and up, long hair can be wrapped around the head, a net or cap securing it if necessary.
Human hair wigs should be washed and set by a hairdresser, but fiber wigs can be done at home.
Shampoo every month, using a mild shampoo. Follow instructions of the manufacture. Dry on a wig block. If you want more curl, set on conventional rollers, dry under a hair dryer. Follow the original curl and pattern, don’t attempt a complete restyle.
HAIRPIECES
These help to add dimension or build up a style and are particularly useful in creating imaginative up-swept effects. Colour matching must be exact and always checked in natural light. Fiber pieces are invariably as effective as real hair and less expensive. They are washed in the same way as a wig , dried and styled on a wig block.
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