Henna is totally vegetable with no chemicals at all, it is non-toxic and can also be used on public hair. It does not disturb the molecular structure of hair as it coats the hair shaft, and thus also increase body. It is slightly astringent, so it is a good idea to rub oil on the skin before using. The Colour lasts several months.
Henna must be used with caution. It is difficult to stabilize the colour except with experience. Its intensity of colour varies according to individual hair conditions and amateurs often have been left with strange shades. A strand test is an absolute necessity. It is a long tedious process but by experiencing you can achieve rich auburn, mahogany or red tones. Brown tones can be acquired when henna is mixed with other vegetable dyes. For example, one-quarter henna and three-quarters camomile will bring a warm chestnut to fading brown hair. A half-and-half combination of henna and camomile will give reddish tones.
Hair must be shampooed before using henna. Wear gloves because it can stain hands and fingernails. Mix 2 cups henna powder with 1 cup warm water into a thick paste, add I teaspoon of vinegar to help release the dye. Let it stand for an hour . Stir mixture in top of double boiler until well warmed, leave for about half an hour. Brush on hair divided into sections, comb through all strands. Warp in towel. For a brown colour leave for about 3 hours , longer for reddish tones and keep checking until you get the colour you want. Wash hair and keep rinsing until water is clear combing all the time.
Sage can give a brown tone to grey hair. Make a strong infusion, preferably combined with black tea ; boil half an hour and let it keep for several hours. This liquid must be dabbed into the hair every day until it deepens to the correct shade.
Saffron or Marigold Flowers will give a reddish tint, use a steeped infusion as a rinse, putting it through the hair many times.
Style
Contemporary hair styling stresses individuality rather than fashion. The aim is healthy naturalness. It is how hair swings and moves that matters. The basis of all modern hair dressing is the cut, when that is done to perfection hair can be styled to swing and curl . The shape of your hair can change the shape of your face, emphasizing best features, minimizing others. This is why body is significant. Move your hair around to see what direction works best for your face. Where features are good, pull your hairs back to reveal them----eyes , forehead, ears, chin, throat . Where there’s a fault of too much or too little, cover with hair---a low forehead, a high one , fat cheeks , strong jaw. Balance a prominent nose, a receding chin with hair so placed that the eye is drawn away from it.
Here are different shapes of face.
Round face----emphasize the top or cover the cheeks, usually short cuts work better.
Long face----make width at the sides by fluffing out hair with waves or curls, best with medium –length hair, fullness starting around ear level.
Square –jawed -----cover the jaw line; straight hair can be cut to hang over the cheeks, wavy hair can break the line, leave forehead clear.
Heart—shaped----hair should be given volume over the fullest part of the cheeks; even straight hair can achieve this through good cutting.
Low forehead----or one that narrows towards the hairline; simple to cover it with a deep fringe that only looks right when it almost reaches the eyes, it should start far back at the crown , the rest can be any length.
Small face----providing features allow it, take all hair away from face , framing it with height and width.
Big face----let hair fall over the face , covering part of the cheeks , possibly at an angle over the forehead.
Prominent nose-----balance it by drawing the eye to the other side of the head, emphasize the crown, giving bulk to short hair or arranging long hair into an up-swept style.
Receding chin---hair must be long enough to arrange fullness along the jaw line.
The cut:
Whatever the length of hair, it should be cut about every six weeks, more frequently for a very short look. It should never be allowed just to grow long. This produces split ends and a straggly appearance.
Hair should be cut wet, after it has been shampooed. It has to be done with precision. Hair is parted into half-inch horizontal layers and each piece cut in turn following the shape of the partings. Cutting starts at the neckline, the rest of the hair being pinned up and brought down piece by piece. Modern styling calls for scissors and a blunt cut which means hair is clipped straight across even when cut into different layers. This helps discourage split ends and achieves a clean, swinging line.
Hair can be cut all one length, which is good for thin fine hair in need of fullness, and for long straight hair. It can be shorter in certain sections, but in any segment hair is the same length . If fair is to be turned under it is usually cut shorter underneath, if fair is to be flipped up, the upper layer is cut shorter.
A layered cut is when hair is cut to different lengths all over the head. It is usually good for thick hair and encourages waves and curls . Hair is sectioned into layers---the shorter ones can be on top or underneath, depending on the style.
These two basic ways of cutting can be used alone or in combination to create a variety of styles.
The Set
There are two ways to transform your wet cut into a living manageable style—by setting in rollers or blowing dry into shape. Curly, wavy and thick hair is often better controlled through rollers.
1. For no parting or center division, roll crown hair back from hairline. Six rollers are average to reach nape, four rollers, wound down, in double rows either side, Six flat clip curls at nape , two more at ear level, ---substitute rollers if hair is long. Fringes can be incorporated in crown rollers, when brushed forward they give a fuller effect.
2. For side division of hair, three diagonal rollers wind downward from side part across crown. Side hair roller down, top back hair winds down. At nape and sides near ear, clip curls or rollers according to length.
3. For a flat straight fringe, comb forward while wet, hold in place with tissue or cotton wool secured wit clips or transparent sticky tape. Other rollers as for first pattern.
4. For getting long hair as straight as possible, use the head as though it is a huge roller, set two big rollers at crown, hair wound down and back, wrap hair firmly around the head securing it with clips. When almost dry, take down and wrap in the opposite direction, dry completely.
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